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Painted bottom - 1 coat. KL-990. 2 quarts.

New line on mainsheet traveler. 1/4" x 12".

Installed padeye in sail track at base of mast for boom vang.

Built and installed hinge up cover over head. Plywood top with oak frame and mounting strips and SS hardware.
See drawing >>
Photo of head cover

Installed nets over cabin side shelves P/S.

Installed SS cigarette lighter type socket in stbd bulkhead adjacent to companionway and switch panel.

Installed lights in engine well and stbd cockpit locker.

Replaced water filler hose. 1 1/2" ID hose 5' long.

Replaced 2" #10 SS screws holding cockpit locker hatch hinges to coaming with #10 SS screws cut to fit (apr. 5/8"). Also installed large diameter (3/4") #10 flat washers in back of nuts.

Unstepped mast for winter storage

Haulout for winter storage

Mounted masthead light to mast top piece with 10-28 screws. It was screwed on to side of mast with self tapers.
Mounted extension for windex mount. Extends aft 4".
Mounted VHF antenna to top piece on fabricated aluminum bracket attached with 10-28 screws.

Compounded sides of hull (above waterline) with no.1 compound. Applied Meguiars #20 polymer sealant.
Modified holding tank to make non-recirculating by removing solids filter. Must install seacock for head water intake.

Sanded top stripe on stbd from midship to stern and boot stripe on both sides from midship to stern.

Sandblasted Bottom (A-Team Sandblasting).
Photo of sandblasted bottom.

12/26/94 - 1/2/95
Built new step for companionway, -folds up and in half and slides to stbd to allow access to under cockpit area. Step and vertical panel from AA plywood, tracks from poplar. See drawing >> STEP.DW2.
Photo of step
Cut panels for drop down access hatches for storage areas P & S below shelves.
Made anti-twist plate for in-boom outhaul rig.
Made mounting brackets for spreader lights.


Fitted outhaul rigging to boom. Large clevis pin 1' from gooseneck with dbl block mounted to it so block wont twist. Drilled mounting holes for aft anti-twist plate 4' from gooseneck. Line exit hole 17" from gooseneck, cleat 71/2" from gooseneck.
Used old upper downhaul block to rebuild lower downhaul block so it has a becket (and is not mangled). New dbl block at top makes downhaul 3:1 instead of 2:1.

Made mounts on masthead for spreader type lights to provide better illumination of deck then from spreaders. Now have option of where to mount lights.

Cut out access panels for settee lockers below shelf in main cabin.
photo of locker doors
First coat of paint inside interior lockers with Enterprise High Gloss Enamel white 1400 100% Acrylic. Made wood frames for settee locker hatch cutouts.
Mounted exit plate on boom for outhaul control line.
Varnished wood parts (locker doors, locker door frames, companionway step, settee locker floors, top of mast step support beam, tiller) with MINWAX Helmsman Spar Urethane Exterior/Interior Clear Semi-Gloss varnish.
Mounted settee locker door frames and doors. Cut locker floor panels. Mounted slide-away companionway step.
|| photo of locker doors | photo of step ||
Started work on main feed panel.
Repaired slight water damage to mast step support beam and cut new channel for mast wiring.
Set head compartment door on blocks with weight on top to un-warp. Middle is 3/8" higher at rest before un-warp.


Mounted bottom panels in settee lockers.
photo of locker bottoms


Trimmed track for companionway step slide track. Cut plywood backing plates for stern coaming.

Built 2nd battery box (for port sail locker) and varnished it.

Built box-enclosure for
main feed panel (see drawing FEEDPANL.DW2). Mounted battery switch in feed panel. Varnished flag pole.

Cut aluminum face panels for main feed panel switch mountings(see drawing FEEDPANL.DW2). Did rough cut on aluminum blank for new gooseneck piece.

Sandblasted keel (A-Team sandblasting), and sprayed with zinc-chromate primer.

Fitted backing plates for stern coaming. Mounted electric power hookup at stern of cockpit and inboard of main switch panel.

Built wiring harness from mast step to junction box in hanging locker.
Started boom modifications for outhaul wire turning block mount.

Sanded rudder and applied West System 105/205 epoxy to surface on port side.

Installed stern coaming hardware backing plates. Mounted new padeyes for back stay adjuster.
Enlarged (apr 25%) mastwire thru-deck hole. Mounted maststep and sealed with silicone sealant.
Cut away part of headliner over hanging locker to feed mast wiring harness from mast step to junction box in hanging locker.

Sanded keel and applied 1 coat of West System epoxy.
Glassed in 2nd battery box in port cockpit locker.
Opened blisters on hull with Dremel tool. Epoxied all blisters on hull.
Glassed in 1/2" plywood backing plate for head intake thru-hull in fwd dinette seat locker.
Enlarged wiring channel in mast support beam and coated with epoxy. Also coated inside of thru-deck mast wiring hole.

Ran wires from mast step to hanging locker inside channel in headliner.

Installed bulkheads and mast-step support beams.

bedded stern pulpit bases in silicone. Drilled 3/4" hole in hull for head intake. Cut recess for flush mount thru-hull with Dremel tool. Sanded stripes. Bedded mast step bolts in silicone. Did some sanding on bottom epoxy work.

Mounted head intake thru-hull and sea cock in locker under forward seat of dinette. Counter sunk thru-hull and sea-cock mounting bolts. Bedded all in epoxy.
Photo of Seacock
Sanded stbd side of keel and applied West System epoxy with fairing compound. Also used fairing compound to fill hull blisters.
Mounted bilge pump thru-hull in transom with 3-M 5200 adhesive/sealant.

Applied West System Epoxy with fairing #410 filler to blister areas and gel coat voids. Lots of sanding on bottom. Filling voids took about 3 applications of epoxy for the deeper ones.

Final sanding of bottom epoxy work. Applied 1 coat of Interlux Interprotect 3000. Mixed about 1/3 gal and it did not cover easily.

Lightly sanded 1st coat of Interprotect 3000. Installed rudder. Applied 2nd coat of 3000. Went on allot easier then 1st coat. Took about 1/3 gal to cover whole hull and keel and ruder with a bit to spare.


Lightly sanded 2nd coat of Interprotect 3000. Applied 3rd coat of 3000. Went on a bit easier then 2nd coat. Took about 1/4 gal to cover whole hull and ruder.

5/22/95 (65 deg F)
Tried to apply Interlux AL-200 no-sand primer(65 deg F). Went on super lumpy and was impossible to spread. Abandon that and sanded entire bottom with 60 grit on pad sander.

5/23/95 (75 deg F)
Applied 1st coat of Interlux VC-Offshore (4:1 mix blue:black) with roller and went over with foam brush to smooth out. VC-Offshore spreads very easily and dried to touch in about 5 minutes. You have to move fast with foam brush.
Applied 2nd coat of paint to green stripes. Removed masking tape. Should have removed tape after 1st coat. Will take more time and effort to remove dried glue and tape from hull than it would have to re-tape.
Assembled new wiring harness for mast. See drawing MASTWIRE.DW2.

Applied 2nd coat of VC-Offshore (all black). 2 coats took 1 full gallon plus about 16 oz.

Had boat hung in slings over night and we sanded off the old paint where the stand pads had been to the gel coat and applied 1 coat of bottom paint.
Rubbed whole hull with Maguire's #44 color restorer and waxed with #50 cleaner/wax. The #44 works very well.

5/27/95 LAUNCH DAY '95
Launched at 0830. New dock -D30. Cleaned black asphalt dust out of deck and bulwarks with FSR (fiberglass stain remover) and Y10 (similar stuff to FSR). The Y10 was more potent but they both were much more effective then rubbing compound. Followed the FSR with a treatment of Maguire's #44 color restorer and waxed with #50 cleaner/wax.
Installed life lines.

Installed new wiring Harness in mast. Made track slides to fit track inside mast from plastic "I beam" from hobby shop. Installed AUX power jack at base of mast. Had to run one 'I beam slide' back and forth on a string a bit to clear the track of all the junk in it (e.g. spider web stuff and dirt).

Stepped mast and pre-tuned rig. Started replacement of main wiring harness on stbd side. Installed mount for GPS.
Prepared boom for installation.

Mounted boom and installed new main sail. Main roach overlaps backstay by 7-8".
Went up mast and Installed Windex, tapped up spreader boots and Cleaned contacts on steaming light.
Cut trim panel behind stbd settee shelf to fit around new switch panel.
Washed and oiled teak.

Had roach of new main sail recut. Fits perfectly now.
Installed new all rope main halyard.

Made whipped splices on ends of lines for traveler, downhaul, outhaul and backstay adjuster.
Mounted bracket for GPS aft of stbd main cabin window and connected power cord to same power tap as radio.

Started to hook up battery switch. Got parts to make binding posts to mount in STBD sail locker over #1 battery.
Removed head to rebuild pump.
Routed head intake hose from seacock in forward dinette seat locker to head through locker behind head.

Installed new jib halyard (all rope-3/8" low stretch) with better shackle whipped onto splice.

Built main power binding post connectors to connect batteries to battery switch and main power harness. Made from strip of oak and 5/16 brass toilet tank bolts. Labeled with rub-on transfer letters and finished with straight epoxy.

Rebuilt Head Pump and re-installed head in boat. connected head to new thru-hull and plugged old head water source on holding tank.
Installed new 5/8 ID hose from water tank to pump on sink and on water tank vent to forepeak.
Installed new binding post power connector and connected both batteries to main battery switch.
Mounted topping lift turning block to aluminum boom end fitting in groove.

7/24/95 ??
Drilled holes on front of mast and tapped 1/4-20 to mount 4 foot track for spinnaker pole car.

Mounted padeyes on foredeck for lifelines so they can go to the pulpit or down to the deck so the big sails don't have to drape over them (Schaefer #18 stem eye 5/8x1-3/4; Shackle on lifeline M&E # RL-382-AW, L=1 5/32,W=9/16, pin dia=3/16).
Mounted door to head compartment.


Drilled and tapped hole (10-24) for bolt to fasten mainsail slug gate shut so sail slugs do not pop out while hoisting or dropping main sail.

Cut and put in new piece of carpet for cabin sole.
Replaced power connector at base of mast (AUX-2).

Installed new jib sheet car and block on track on stbd side. Used Miriman car and Lewmar 1601 block with Harken stand-up spring. Port side car ready to install.

Had new cradle modified to better fit boat and to use old jackstand screws which were much larger then screws that came with cradle. Welder added a length of 1 1/2" ID pipe to each vertical section to hold screws and tilted front legs inward about 12 degrees. Cradle fits boat perfectly with pads resting at forward and aft bulkheads.

10/25/95 HAULOUT '95

Unstepped mast. Took only 3 people, 2 on mast and 1 working hoist.

Hauled boat and set on cradle.

Bottom paint held up very well. Only a couple of peeled spots and some cracks at the keel-hull joint.

Replaced 30 amp shore power cord connector with 20 amp connector.
Sanded part of bottom at bow to see how well it sanded. Sands fairly easily to a very smooth surface.


Built panel for banana terminals to go on the
main feed panel. (See drawing HEADCOVR.DW2)

3/15/96 - 3/31/96
Sanded entire bottom with 100 grit in preparation for painting with VC Offshore.
Started building main electric switch panel and adding panels to main feed panel (see drawing HEADCOVR.DW2).

Made mount/shade for windex light on end of windex extension. Should block any glare from windex light. The bulb is a 3cp that is soldered directly to the wires. The connections on the bulb are covered with heat shrink. Bulb wires feed into masthead harness. Windex + is on pin # C on masthead connector. (See file MASTSTEP.HNS for mast wiring guide).

Made aluminum mounting plate for main sail outhaul turning block. Finished off the mounting spot for the plate and cut rectangular hole in bottom of sail track for the turning block and wire to enter the boom. (see drawing
photo of outhaul

Fabricated aluminum mounting plate for toping lift turning block on boom end plate. Mounted a Harken #??? exit block for 1/4" line. Toping lift line will run through boom forward to exit plate on stbd side of about 18" aft of gooseneck.

Fabricated new drain for engine well from 1.5" ID PVC pipe to replace the .375" factory tube that always clogged (See drawing

Washed and waxed hull.
Epoxied the PVC engine well drain pipe in place and added 1 application of fiberglass cloth over the joints (about 3 layers).

Made wire mount for windex light bulb that clamps under windex mount. Connected windex light to masthead wiring harness and re-taped harness with white rigging tape. Masthead is ready to go.

2nd application of fiberglass cloth to inside of new engine well drain. Also applied fairing to top and bottom of new drain. Fairing was West system with 406 silica and 501 white pigment. A small dab of pigment (size of dime) is enough for 1 pumps worth of epoxy.

3rd application of fiberglass cloth to new engine well drain.
Did some wiring work on the main feed panel battery connections.
Patched up some tears in the sail cover and added a velcro closure at the aft end.

Made a mount from aluminum for the Garmin GPS bracket to mount in the cockpit.

Made new lower bearing surface on rudder shaft using west System epoxy with graphite powder additive. Added about 3 heaping tablespoons of powder to 1 pumps worth of epoxy. Had a consistency between mayonnaise and peanut butter. Spread this on shaft and put on one of the old bearings that had been sanded smooth inside and waxed with Turtle Wax as a release agent. I cut several small grooves on the shaft (parallel to the shaft) to lock the epoxy from rotating on the shaft. The old bearing shaped the epoxy for the bearing surface. The bearing came off fairly easily. (I should have waxed all of the surface of the bearing -inside and out- to prevent attachment of epoxy.) the new bearing surface came out very well with some small void areas where the epoxy didn't fill the gap completely. The void areas are about 15% of the total area. On first try of re-fitting the bearing over the epoxy surface it did not fit over - too tight. I was able to spin it as I took it off the first time (it was tight but I could turn it by hand). Light sanding fixed fit problem. (See drawing
R_SHAFT.DW2) The aluminum rudder shaft had been worn down to about .05" less then the overall shaft diameter. There was no way to get a tight fit with rudder bearings that fit over the shaft. If they fit over the shaft they were loose when in place. the bottom was more worn then the top.

Painted bottom with VC offshore (black). Sprayed it with an air sprayer (set at 40 psi). Masked water line with 3M Fineline tape and then taped packing paper with regular masking tape to cover topsides. Wax paper works better then the packing paper-it's easier to handle. Mixed VC Offshore with VC 171 thinner (apr. 10%). It took 1 quart to cover entire hull (except rudder) with 3 passes over water line. It took about 1.5 hours to paint entire hull (+ 40 minutes to mask). It would have gone faster if the paint gun had delivered a greater volume of paint. Paint dried quickly (5-15 minutes - temp 55-60 deg, humidity +60%).

Also re-painted green boot stripe in area where new engine well drain comes through the hull.

Rebuilt wiring in foredeck light. Soldered wires directly to the tabs that hold the bulb.

Applied epoxy for upper ruder bearing surface and filled in void areas on lower surface.

Made contoured backing plate from aluminum to fit inside curve of mast to mount padeye at mast base for spinnaker pole downhaul.

Wet sanded entire bottom with 600 grit. Started with bucket but switched to hose which worked much better. Bottom sanded very well to a smooth surface. Took about 1:15 to sand all of it (except rudder).

Started getting mast prepped for stepping. Mounted padeye at base for spin pole downhaul (Schaefer #18 stem eye 5/8x1-3/4) with backing plate made on 5/4/96.

Painted rudder with VC offshore. Applied it with a foam brush which barely made it to the end of the job.

Wet sanded rudder with 600 grit (240 then 600 in rougher spots). The spray application on the hull came out much better then the foam brush on the rudder. Ended up sanding allot of paint off the rudder to get a smooth finish and it's still not as good as the bottom.

Mounted engine and connected it to batteries. Installed gas tank and fuel line.

Mounted rudder with new bearing surface. Fits very well Nice and snug. The top bearing could have been tighter. Greased both bearings with Harken grease. Also attached tiller.

Cleaned rust from bottom of keel with large wire brush on drill and Touched up bottom paint. Did a little more sanding on the bottom (600 grit). It's very smooth now - considerably smoother then last year. Probably as much better then 95 as 95 was over 94. The rudder could be better. I should have had it mounted for spraying.

Prepped mast for stepping. Installed head piece, headstay, backstay, halyards and topping lifts.

5/9/96 LAUNCH DAY '96
Launch at 1330. New dock > D26.

Stepped Mast. Remember to tie the bridal under all of the shrouds and lines! Had a problem with the mast wiring connector. The collar was cross threading. Connected the pins without the collar and taped over it with rigging tape.

Washed most of the deck - small yellow seeds (?) left yellow stains on deck that do not come off with soap or the Star Brite Non-Skid Cleaner. (They do bleach out from Mr. Sun eventually)

Boat fits well in slip, new dock is 6 feet longer then the boat.

Tuned rig, installed backstay adjuster, gooseneck and downhaul.

Installed internal parts for outhaul in boom. Fabricated wire clamp for outhaul wire from aluminum - 2 pieces with grooves that clamp down on wire when screwed together. Clamp works very well and allows adjustment of wire length at the clew. Installed outhaul wire turning block with 2 10-24 screws threaded through the block mounting plate and the bottom of the sail track in the boom. Also installed topping lift line in boom.

Made wrapped eyes on the ends of the outhaul line, toping lift, pole lift and main halyard with shackles on all but the outhaul.

Installed boom and main sail. New outhaul works very well. Wire adjuster works fine, the thimble could be anchored to the adjuster block a little better. As the wire is tensioned, the thimble is bent a little so the ends close in. The internal topping lift works well too.

Cleaned contacts on bulb and socket of port (red) running light.

Connected radio directly to battery.

Installed new mainsheet ratchet block and new main sheet line. Line is 65 feet 3/8 fuzzy braid (blue). Made a wrapped eye on the end of the main sheet around 1/2 of the double block attached to the ratchet block.

Mounted cleat on boom just aft of outhaul exit plate for cleating off the outhaul line.

Mounted padeye on aft side of mast at base for boom vang (to replace the one that was lost while working on the mast over the winter).

Made splice eye in end of dock line to set as spring over pole at end of dock.

Mounted and connected direct battery terminals to main feed panel. The banana binding posts connect to the battery cables on the back of the battery switch.

Fed new wires to power port side cabin lights from locker space above head to the mounting point for the head compartment light. Wires will feed forward main cabin light, head light and v-berth light. It was very difficult to feed the wire behind the headliner. Took about 2 hours.

Mounted red night light in head compartment on aft side of headliner and ran wire inside headliner channel (that holds main bulkhead in place) down to locker above headliner.

Installed main feed panel and connected battery switch.

Did final tuning of rig, pinned it off and taped up the pins and turnbuckle covers.

Mounted new 14' T-track on stbd gunwale to replace original 4' section. Mounted track with 1/4-20 1.5" flathead screws and nuts with washers. Drilled 7/32 holes in fiberglass and tapped them then put in screws with Boat Life sealer, then put on backing washers and nuts. Whole job took about 3 hours including removal of old track section. The track bent easily to fit the curve of the gunwale and reaches to about 3' forward of the shrouds. Original track was backed with standard sized 1/4" washers. (apr. 3/4" diameter). New track was installed with the same size washers but these will be replaced with 1/4" fender washers which were out of stock.

1st bottom cleaning of season courtesy of Jonathan Duer. He reported modest scum buildup and some spotty growth. Worse on port bow section.

Installed T-track on port side. Boat points 5-10 degrees higher with better sheeting positions for smaller sails. The 170 was the only one that would sheet correctly with the old short tracks.

Mounted homemade base plate for gps bracket on teak companionway trim in cockpit.

Had to replace lift rings on genoa car lock pins. The original rings were not very stiff and one pulled out leaving the car un-moveable. The pin was easily freed at the dock and stiffer rings were installed.

Installed temporary power feed for cabin lights in head and V-berth.
Moved aft most stanchion outboard by using original outboard holes for inboard side of base plate and drilling 2 new holes.

Added a 4" cleat to the port side of the mast 8 inches below the jib winch. Drilled mounting holes and tapped for 12-24 machine screws. Cleat is for spinnaker halyard.

Cleaned the bottom. There was about 1/8" to 1/4" of slime that came off easily with a brush. The bottom paint (VC Offshore) did not come off at all. There was more slime on the port quarter - it gets sun all afternoon. I can attach the suction cup handle as far as I can reach with my head above water then reach the bottom of the keel when I go under. The whole cleaning job took about 90 minutes. Before cleaning at full throttle we made 5.7 knots in flat water. With a clean bottom we were able to make 6.4 knots at full throttle in flat water. The VC Offshore is holding up very well.

Replaced old shoelace tell tails on 170 with orange nylon ones. Mounted new ones in same locations and added pairs about 18" aft of the middle and lower sets.

Mounted 12" stainless steel rub strakes where spinnaker pole rubs on gunwale when it's lashed to the pulpit. Dipped the screws in silicone sealer before fastening them.

Mounted depth sounder transducer in forward bilge section just ahead of the keel. Mounted with silicone manipulating it in the silicone until the unit acquired.

Mounted docking light just below rub rail on starboard side even with the forward stanchion. Wire comes through hull into Vberth space behind trim panel above shelf. Sealed hole for wire and the light with silicone. The light is a Blazer C460 Interior Light with a Sylvania DE3175 bulb soldered in place. The Light and bulb came from an automotive store. I Soldered a length of Anchor 18ga twin wire to the bulb mount and ran this through the hole in the hull. The light is mounted with #4 SS screws that were sealed with silicone in holes that do not go all the way through the hull.

Cleaned the bottom. The water temperature was 64.2 and I was very comfortable in my 1/4" wet suit. There was a moderate slime buildup on the bottom. I cleaned the waterline and as much as I could reach without going under water.

Made aluminum mounting plate for Harken 279 cam cleat to fit on Garhauer adjustable genoa lead car. The 1/4" plate screws on to the car with 2 3/16-24 screws. I drilled and tapped the holes in the car. I also drilled and tapped holes in the plate to mount the cam cleat with 8-32 screws. The plate is flat and mounts on the outboard side of the car. I only made one for the stbd car.

Test fit the new adjustable genoa lead car with the 170.. It works well and the adjustment line is easy to work with the cam cleat outboard. You have to be careful to keep it out of the water and clear of the sheet. The car slides well but does not move aft without being pulled when close on the wind with the 170.

Made mounting plate for Harken 279 cam cleat for port genoa lead car. Specs are the same as the stbd side made on 10/16/96.

Mounted adjustable genoa cars with enough line for 6 feet of travel.

Took down rig and disassembled mast. Took all the lines and shrouds off the mast except the lowers. to get the boat in the proper position under the mast crane the 1st stanchion was at the forward end of the ladder on the wall. There were just 2 of us and we were able to handle the mast without any trouble. Removed all cars from t-track.

11/7/96 HAULOUT '96
Hauled boat, pressure washed bottom and set it on cradle (see drawing
CRADLE.DW2). The bottom was pretty clean except for the rudder which had allot of slime on it. The bottom paint held up well. There was some bubbling of the paint on the keel. Removed rudder, engine and #2 battery. The rudder bearing repair held up well (See log entry from 5/2/96, drawing R_SHAFT.DW2 and photo of repair ). As the rudder was turned the bearing turned with it for a few degrees. The bearing needs to be fastened to the rudder tube to prevent this. There was no more play at the rudder tip then there was when I installed the rudder in the spring. There was some critter growth on the rudder shaft above the bearing. I may paint it with antifouling paint next season.

The cradle is in good shape and the boat is sitting with the aft tip of the keel just an inch forward of the aft end of the cradle. The gunwale is about 10' of the ground. It is sitting OK but the front pads would be closer to bulkheads with the boat about 4 inches forward on the cradle.
|| Photo of haulout | Photo of boat on cradle ||

Inspected the rudder bearings and the repaired bearing surfaces on the shaft for wear. The epoxy surfaces showed no signs of wear and the bearing still fit snugly over it.
photo of repair

Removed #1 battery and main feed panel from boat.

Shoveled snow off boat. there was about 15 inches of wet snow. Total snowfall on the boat for the week was close to 30 inches. This compacted down to 15 by Saturday. I estimated the snow weight to be 20 lbs/sf. Typically about 10 inches of snow is equivalent to 1 inch of water but this snow was very heavy. I figured 8" snow = 1 of water. 30 inches would be about 4" of water which is 1/3 of a foot so 1 sf would be about 20 lbs. The deck area of the boat, as seen by a snow flake is about 160sf. That's about 3,200 lbs of snow. There was no visible oil-canning of the hull where the cradle pads make contact. Other boats in the marina had severe oil-canning.
photo of boat in snow

11/27/96 - 11/30/96
Removed stanchions and lifelines from deck.
Built and installed PVC cover frame and covered boat with 20x30 blue poly tarp. The cover frame is 3/4" (ID) schedule 40 PVC. There are 8 lateral bows and one longitudinal in the middle. The longest bow is 150 inches. The bows that are over 10 feet are spliced with a 10-12" piece of slotted 1/2" PVC inside. The slot is the curf of a saw blade and was made on a table saw. 7 of the bows are attached to the T track on the gunwale with 3-way PVC connectors (1"x1"x3/4") that I slotted to fit onto the T-track like a car. The longitudinal sections are connected to the laterals by 4-way PVC connectors that are bored out (with a sanding drum on my dremel) in one direction to slide over the PVC. They are spaced every 28" along the T-track. The forward most bow is set in the stanchion base. There is also a vertical support for the longitudinal that attaches to the bow cleat and two additional short longitudinals from the aft most bow to the stern pulpit. The 4 attachments to the pulpits (3 aft, 1 forward) are made with the same 3-way connectors as the T-track slotted to snap over the 1" pulpit rail. I covered the pulpits with foam pipe insulation to protect the cover from the lifeline hookup rings. The entire frame is very stiff and there is about 6"3" of headroom over the cockpit. It's easy to crawl to the foredeck and there's lots of room to work. Getting on and off the boat is easy through the engine well cut out. The 3 forward most bows need to be larger to make better contact with the cover and to make the longitudinal to the bow pulpit come down at a steeper angle so there is no flat area on the cover. These three bows should be almost as high as the highest bow over the cabin. The entire frame took about 6-7 hours to make including installation and putting the cover on.
photos of cover

Made adjustments to the PVC cover frame. We made the 3 forward bows taller so that they made better contact with the cover and so the longitudinal came down to the bow pulpit at a steeper angle. This eliminated the flat spot over the pulpit and increased the pitch on the forward part of the cover.

Cut a piece of carpet to hang over the opening at the engine well to serve as a door. Added extensions to the forward most bow (station 1) to shift the base point outboard to the rail for better cover support.


Two of the cover frame T-track fittings on the port side popped off the t-track (stations 4 & 6). I was able to pry them back onto the t-track by putting a 15" piece of PVC inside to use as a prybar. Some of the t-track fittings had slid out of position on the track.

Put screws in a couple of the cover frame T-track cars to hold them in place. The screws are 2" #10 and go through the pvc fitting perpendicular to the t-track and squeeze the fitting against the track.

Interlux paint sprayer specifications for VC-Offshore application. 10-15 psi at pot, 50-60 psi at tip, .070 - .085 tip size.

Wet sanded bottom with 400 grit and 240 on rougher areas.

Cut 4" hole in cabin sole under companionway step for bilge pump access plate. Drilled mounting holes for access plate.
Photo of installation

Cut 4" hole in fore deck (port side, just ahead of bow cleat - over fore peak) for access plate (for vent and anchor line). Drilled mounting holes for access plate.

Cut holes and fit 1.5" PVC pipe for new fuel line tube from engine well to gas tank box in cockpit.
Started making panel for fuses to fit on forward end of main feed panel enclosure.

Coated insides of holes in foredeck and cabin sole with West System Epoxy. Applied 1st layer of fiberglass to new fuel line tube.

Took off winter cover. Topsides were very dirty. Dirt was rubbed in to gel coat surface by cover. Should have waxed topsides at end of last season. Cleaned topsides with Maguier's #44 Color Restorer. It was not very effective - maybe because it was 2 years old?
Applied 2nd layer of fiberglass to new fuel line tube. Applied west system with fairing compound and white pigment to ends of tube to fair them into the surface.
Sanded entire bottom with 100 grit paper in preparation for bottom painting.
Mounted deck plate in fore deck sealing it with silicone. Also mounted deck plate under step without sealer.


Cleaned topsides with fresh Maguier's #49 Heavy Duty Color Restorer and #44. Applied with buffing machine and by hand in trouble spots. Worked better but it didn't get all the stains out. Waxed with Maguier's #50 Cleaner Wax. Topsides look pretty good now but work is needed on and between the stripes.
Numbered pieces of PVC cover frame and removed it from the boat.

4/27/97 - 5/3/97

Mounted fuse holders (RS# 270-368) on forward side of main feed panel housing. Mounted 6 circuit breakers in aluminum panel and 9 toggle switches. Modified panel with direct battery taps to make room to mount voltmeter on main feed panel just below the battery switch. (see drawing FEEDPNL2.DW2)
Used jack stand to paint under cradle pads one at a time. Painted with foam brush and let dry for 20 minutes before replacing cradle pad which was covered with wax paper. Could use 1 brush for all 4 pads.
Re-applied epoxy to rudder shaft bearing surface. The previous job had not adhered well to the aluminum surface (see 5/2/96). Used West System 860 Etching kit to treat aluminum before applying epoxy with graphite powder. Prepped engine - cleaned spark plugs, topped off crank case oil and washed engine.

Mounted Rudder. It fits very snug.
Applied 2nd coat of bottom paint under cradle pads.
Applied (spray) 1 coat of VC Offshore with new Krebs 35T sprayer. #8 tip worked best at a spray distance of 10-14 inches with the spray control (back of sprayer) full CCW to 1/4 turn CW. Thinned paint with NAPA (Martin Senour) Acrylic Lacquer Thinner #3099 at about 20-25%. This thinner dries a bit slower then the Interlux VC-171 thinner and you get better wet-out of the paint and a smoother finish. The sprayer was very fast. I covered the entire boat in about 20 minutes. Cleanup was pretty easy. The fan nozzle (FS5?) did not work well at all. The sprayer is a bit heavy but manageable. The elbow attachment that came with the sprayer was used for most of the job. Overall the sprayer worked very well. The sprayer spits drops of paint when you start a new cup and when the cup runs out. After cleaning the sprayer you have to add a few drops of WD-40 to the pickup tube hole and run the sprayer to lubricate the pump. Used 1 2/3 quarts of VC Offshore for 1 coat. The paint required allot of mixing - it had separated and there was a thick layer at the bottom of the can.

Sprayed 2nd coat of VC Offshore bottom paint. Had to set up a wind break to paint. This worked OK but it was almost to windy (12-18 knots?) to paint even with the wind break. Used 1.5 quarts. I can get 2 complete coats from 3 quarts of paint. I should have painted the edges (of bow, keel an rudder) once with a foam brush. These areas came out a bit thin.
Removed paper and masking tape. The 3M Fineline tape came right off after 18 hours with no residue left behind.
Cleaned off bottom paint overspray with VC-170 General Purpose Thinner/Cleaner. This took the overspray off the topsides very easily. Had to re-wax the topsides after that. Used Maguier's #50 Cleaner Wax.
Wet sanded bottom about 5 hours after painting. Started with 600 grit but that was not aggressive enough. Switched to 320 which worked very well. It took about 2 hours to sand the entire bottom and about 2 sheets of sand paper. The bottom came out very very smooth. The areas that had runs or were rough sanded out smooth very easily. This is easily the best bottom the boat has had.
Photo of bottom
Mounted light in engine well hole that had thru-hull for old fuel line feed.

5/6/97 LAUNCH DAY '97
Launch at 1330. Dock > D26
Before launch - touched up the boot stripe (Interlux Topside Enamel) and some spots on the keel where the bottom paint flaked off. Wet sanded the spots under the cradle pads while the boat was hanging in the slings. We taped (3M Fineline) paper to the topsides to keep the travel lift slings from leaving marks on the boat. This worked well.
After launch - Mounted stanchions and upper life lines.
Mounted masthead wind transducer and attached connectors to cable. Used Caltronics 80-6PRT (Molex type) connector.

PIN	COLOR	Old Kenyon Pin
1	Green		C
2	Blue		F
3	Black		A
4	Red		B
5	White		D
6	Brown		E

Pin layout looking at pin from front
Male              Female
 _____    _____
|4 5 6|  |6 5 4|
|1 2 3|  |3 2 1|
 -^-^-    -^-^-

Mounted new line (1/4" Dacron) for lower life lines. Moved mast off of mast tree for setup.

Built wiring harness for new electric panel and wired power lines to HH VHF mount, volt meter and direct battery taps on main feed panel. Wiring harness consists of 3 parts (not including feeds from batteries to battery switch. There is a set of 6 10 ga wires from the 6 circuit breaker outputs, 5 14 ga wires from the heavy duty switches (1 of these gets a feed from breaker #5) and a cable with 19 18 ga wires, 2 for the 12v feed to the HH VHF from the AC power supply, and 10 for 5 of the switches on the panel and 7 spares. These harnesses will feed into the main junction box in the stbd cockpit locker above the #1 battery box.

Attached Molex connectors to wiring harness for main feed panel (See text file WIRING.HNS for pin out). Added data cable for masthead wind transducer to mast wiring harness. I pulled the harness out and taped the data cable to it. Soldered data cable wires to pins on 19 pin amphenol connector at base of mast panel (See text file WIRING.HNS for pin out). Some of the slides that hold the harness to the track in the mast are a bit worn. Some will need replacement the next time the harness is removed. I lubricated them with soap when I put the harness back in.
Prepped mast for stepping by reattaching shrouds, stays and spreaders and installing halyards.

Stepped mast. Went pretty smoothly.

Installed Tuff Luff.
Installed main feed panel and #2 battery. Charged #1 battery. Mounted VHF. Clamped wiring harness to back of T-track bolts.
Clamped hose on thru-hull for electric bilge pump.
Installed boom, mainsheet, downhaul and backstay adjuster. Installed battens in main sail.

5/12/97 Mounted King VHF to cabin roof just to stbd of companionway hatch. Wired it directly to the battery feed. Mounted depth sounder. It seemed to work fine. It read 7.5 feet.
Drilled hole in main bulkhead to feed wiring harness and coax from hanging locker just below deck level. Re-routed coax so it could reach new radio mount.
Installed jib lead cars on T-Track. Mounted small padeyes at aft end of topside above rub-rail to tie bungie cords for adjustable genoa cars.
Adjusted headstay and backstay tension. Mounted small windex on backstay.

Started building wiring harness for inside of main junction box.

5/14/97 Went to top of mast and mounted Windex and wind transduder. Also aimed spot lights. The screw on the wind transducer would be easier to manipulate if it were a philips head. The flat screw driver slips out and is difficult to control when hanging at the masthead.
Ran a sail up the new Tuff Luff. Goes up and down very easily. 130 may need some changes at head and tack. The webbing loop at the head is too thick to easily fit the halyard shackle through and the webbing loop at the bottom is parallel to the sail, the hook on the deck is perpendicular. It does twist over OK bit it might be better if it were the same direction as the hook or if it had a steel ring in it. Also, the prefeeder on the tuff luff is about 2 inches too high.
Depth sounder worked when we were out sailing.

Drilled and tapped holes in aft cabin bulkhead (under nav table) for mounting studs for main junction box in cockpit locker. Put in 1/4-20 bolts secured to the bulkhead with nylocks. The aluminum junction box stands off the bulkhead on top of the nylocks. Ran 10ga ground lead from cockpit locker to hanging locker and attached it, 19 conductor cable and VHF coax to 9 conductor cable with zip ties.
Photo of main junction box installation
Made final tensioning adjustments to shrouds.
Mounted terminal panel in main junction box. Almost ready to start wiring it.
Depth sounder worked when we started out but stopped working.

Depth sounder worked intermittently while sailing.

Depth sounder worked all the time while sailing.
Lowered pre-feeder for Tuff-Luff so it is level with the top of the pulpit.
Worked on wiring harness and main junction box. Sized harnessing for main switch panel, added Molex connectors to harness and main junction box, started wiring main junction box, worked on final design for main switch panel (see drawing PANEL7.DW2).

Mounted main junction box in cockpit locker and started hooking up wiring harnesses to it.
Photo of main junction box installation
Knot meter was acting up. Depth worked most of the time while sailing.

Installed 15 pin Molex connector on 9x12 conductor cable that runs to hanging locker. Added taps off of this cable for cabin lights, running lights and ground. Removed cables that went to motor. Connected stern light to new harness.
Temporarily connected all circuits that went to bulkhead switch panel to the switches in the main feed panel. Cut all the leads to the OEM panel on the bulkhead.

Connected knotmeter, depth sounder and GPS to new junction box.

Cut aluminum panel (5x9") for main switch panel to mount on bulkhead. Started drilling holes for switches. Mounted switches in temporary lexan panel and connected wiring harness to them.

Removed OEM switch panel and wiring. Mounted temporary main switch panel on bulkhead (see drawing PANEL7.DW2). All circuits worked fine.
Mounted Kenyon AW/WS-400 Apparant Wind/Anemometer instrument display in bulkhead where log istrument was. Sealed edge with a bead of silicone.

Connected wind instrument. All seemed to work fin after I corrected a reversed pair of leads from the masthead transducer. The wind vain is a bit sticky at low speeds (<4 knots) and does not respond nearly as fast as the windex.
Ran a length of 8 conductor cable from the main junction box to the instrument locker on the stbd side. There are 8 wires, 2-18ga and 6-22ga. I used the black 18ga for a common ground. The rest can be positives for the instruments. Wires are assigned as follows:

color	ga	Function
Blue	22	wind power
Red	22	compass light
Green	22	speed power
White	18	instrument lighting
Black	18	ground
Brown	22
Yellow	22
Orange	22
Connected motor to feed from battery switch. Observed voltmeter while motor ran. At idle speeds the voltage was up by about 2/10 volt. At cruising speed (4-5 knots) voltage was up about 3 volts (15 on meter which is poorly calibrated). I will test this with a reliable volt meter next time out.

Connected lighting power feed in wind display to main junction box with white 18ga wire in 8 wire cable from main junction to instrument locker.

Started fabricating new cam cleat bracket for Garhauer genoa lead car. The new bracket will be a right angle plate that mounts the cam cleat vertically on the inboard side of the car. This provides clearance for the car over the deck coaming and makes it easier to lock off the control line since you can pull it outboard and get a proper angle on it to lock it into the cam cleat.

Had genoa car cam cleat bracket welded at Tigmasters. Works great on boat. Clears coaming easily and is easy to lock and release the line. When pulling the control line to move the car forward you need to pull straight back or it rubs on the plastic fairlead. This may be a minor problem.
Hoisted new genoa (150%) and marked locations for stanchion patches and spreader patches. Dimensions for new sail are luff=32.33, leech=30.85, foot=18.65, area=281, LP=17.4, %J=149. Sailmaker measured the LP at 17.7 ft.

Installed AC outlet (GFI) on forward facing surface at aft end of port side shelf in main cabin. Ran cable for outlet to stbd cockpit locker.

Connected the 2 AC outlets to a 3 prong plug so that they can be plugged into the red shore power box.
Washed deck and cleaned stained areas with Maguier's #44 Color Restorer. Waxed the cabin house with Maguier's #50 Cleaner Wax.

Connected cabin lights to main junction box.

Changed backstay adjuster by replacing single block on pull ring with double and putting a block at the bottom on the stbd side. The purchase is the same (4:1) but now there is more travel.
Installed shore power outlet in head compartment on behind door to main cabin and below the sill of the hanging locker. The outlet faces aft. Attached 14 gauge wire to it for connection to planned outlet in V-berth.

Installed GFI shore power outlet in v-berth. It is at the aft end of the outboard bulkhead on the port side just below the shelf. There is about 3-5 inches of dead space behind this vertical surface. The wire for this outlet runs down to the locker under the v-berth where it and the head compartment outlet are spliced into the 14ga wire that will run aft on the port side to the outlet at the aft end of the dinette shelf.

Mounted u-bolt padeyes on cabin top 2 inches forward of handrails for attaching preventer line. The padeyes are just within reach from the companionway.
Mounted 4 inch cleat on port side of mast about 18 inches above jib winch.

Replaced internal memory battery in King VHF. The battery is a 1/3N lithium and the original had tabs soldered to it to mount it on the circuit board. King sells a replacement for $35. I got one without tabs for $4 and soldered wires to it to attach to the circuit board.

Bought and installed new #1 battery. The battery is a 27T130 and cost $65. It is a 130 amp hour deep cycle flooded battery and measures 12.75 x 6.75 x 9.875. It just fits in the factory battery box in the stbd cockpit locker. The old battery was an Exide Nautilus Starting battery that was new when we got the boat in '94. It was never very good and was probably ruined by the continuous cycling we put it through (which is not what starting batteries are designed for).

Replaced a 3' section of lower lifeline just forward of the aft most stanchion with 1" webbing to lean against when sitting up on the coaming. The webbing has adjusters on it to change the length.

Tried out the new bottom cleaner at the dock. It is a wool blanket cut and sewed into a 1x12' strap that we run over the bottom working it from the deck like a flosser. It works well on the slime but is not aggressive enough for the green growth. If we use it every few days it might get the green before it gets thick. The bottom edge of the keel has some rust on it.

Replaced clam cleats on traveler with new ones.

Replaced washers backing genoa track bolts on port side with fender washers.
Connected AC outlets in V berth and head compartment to outlets in main cabin.
Added snap clip to foredeck bungie to clip it across deck over sail.

Mounted electric bilge pump under cabin sole at aft end of cabin just under the access port I installed on
4/19/97. Drilled 1.25" hole in bulkhead between space under cabin sole where pump is and the space under the cockpit to route the new bilge pump hose. The hose runs up just under the manual pump then aft on the inboard side of the locker just below the hatch opening then back down to the thru-hull in the transom. The highest point of the hose is about 18" above LWL and 24" above the pump.
Photo of installation

Connected electric bilge pump to main junction box connection for switch MF4 on main feed panel.
Tried out new bottom cleaning pad at the dock. It's made from a block of Styrofoam and carpet on a pole. It works fairly well and gets the area that the flosser (see 7/26/97) can't reach. Both worked pretty well, the flosser did a better job. I had to touch up where the flosser could not reach and where there was thicker algae growth that it was not aggressive enough to remove. I spent about 25 minutes at the dock and 20 minutes in the water.

Connected engine well lights to main jinction box. This is a temporary hookup to the screw terminals. I will connect through the molex connector for the final hookup. I also ran 14ga duplex wire (red/yellow) to the AUX power jacks in the cockpit and in the cabin above the chart table. Replaced fuel line.

Connected AUX power hookups in cockpit, cabin and mast base to main junction box. Also ran 12 feed to port side dinette shelf for boom box with 5.5x2.5 coax power connector.

Re-mounted port side forward cabin light.
Mounted coathook on forward bulkhead in head compartment on port side and on back of door to head compartment.

Drilled hole in tiller for extensoin mounting. Installed metal sleeve in hole and mounted stainless steel tiller extension.

Prepared "new" Kenyon SW400 knotmeter for installation by swapping it into the Kenyon depth sounder housing which has the same face plate. Also cleaned up Kenyon close hauled indicator.

Mounted Kenyon SW400 knotmeter in place of old analog Kenyon SW100 knotmeter in bulkhead. Made a mounting pannel for the Kenyon instrument control panels out of plastic and mounted it inside the istrument access panel on the inside of the bulkhead. Connected the wiring for the knotmeter and also for the Close Hauled indicator which I did not mount. I did connect the cables to try the meter and it seemed to function just fine. The knotmeter seemed to function fine but the display is a bit hard to read - as if the contrast is too high. On the workbench it looked better with the voltage down a bit but then the log would not click over.

Made pocket type holders for aft side of nav table for weather radio and pencils out of cardboard and epoxy. I painted on the epoxy to coat the cardboard. We'll see how well they hold up. I attached them to the table edge with a couple of screws.

Attached snap shackle to outhaul wire so it can be switched over to the reef clew more easily.

Removed padeyes on cabin top (installed 7/13/97) to re-do holes with epoxy. I drilled the holes larger and scooped out the wet balsa on the port side where there had been a leak. The core was wet and rotten for about 1/2 inch around the hole. The stbd side did not leak and the core was dry. I put some electric tape over the bottoms of the holes and filled the holes with straight epoxy. They sucked up a lot of epoxy. I used 5 pumps worth of epoxy and that didn't fill the holes. I let this set and added another 5 pumps worth figuring the 2nd application would not soak in as far. I topped off the port side and added some silica filler to thicken the epoxy a bit on the stbd side so it fill better.
Made new light for compass with LED. Used a high brightness jumbo orange LED from Radio Shack (RS# 276-206) with a 470 ohm resistor in series. The LED is more then bright enough and draws only 20MA. The light cast by the LED looks more red then orange and there is a bright spot on the compass card that I aimed at the forward lubbers line. The jumbo LED is about the size of the standard bulb it replaced.

Made new bottom cleaner from 10' 1.5" PVC pipe with a scrub brush attached to the end and 2 1 gallon plastic jugs (from window washer fluid) for flotation. The jugs keep the brush in good contact with the hull. The cleaner seems to work very well.

Removed stbd inboard sheeting jib lead block, drilled out holes, scooped out core material and filled holes with epoxy. This is in preparation for replacing the blocks with U-bolt padeyes like the ones put on the cabin top on 7/13/97. The OEM block was fastened down with #8 machine screws and a fiberglass backing plate. It's hard to believe that it was strong enough to do the job it was intended for. It apeared to be sealed with silicone. There were no signs of leakage and the core was clean and dry. I filled in about 1.5 pump strokes of silicone into the holes.

Mounted new U-bolt padeye on stbd side deck in place of inboard sheeting block. I drilled a hole through the epoxy I had applied on 10/6/97 and sealed the padeye with Boat Life White sealer caulk.

Unstepped mast and stripped it down except for the lower shrouds.
Removed stancheons and lifelines.

10/30/97 HAULOUT '97
Hauled boat and put on cradle for winter storage.
Removed #1 battery and brought it home for winter storage. 10/31/97

Washed and waxed topsides. There was a lot of brown staining on the hull at the water line. FSR was very effective at removing it.
Removed tiller.

Set up PVC cover frame and covered boat with old blue poly tarp. The tarp is pretty beat up but we may squeeze another season out of it. We put a 1" webbing strap around the boat just below the rub rail with a ratchet at the stern to tighten it. We draped the tarp over the boat and pulled it up under the strap so that the cover did not extend below the strap and the excess was tucked under the cover. We then tightened the ratchet. The strap is held up at the front by a line tied to the stem fitting.

Added clamps to secure the cover to the rub rail. The strap had popped over the rub rail and needed to be better secured.


Charged #2 battery.
Brought mast to house on top of car.

Mounted exit block (Harken 287) for spin pole topping lift to run the line internally. Cut exit slot for topping lift about 8 feet above mast base on port side.
Cut slots in masthead piece to run stbd halyards internal. Sanded tiller.

Mounted padeye (Schaefer #18 stem eye 5/8x1-3/4) on front of mast about 15 inches from the base. I fabricated an aluminum backing plate to fit the curve of the inside of the mast.

Removed winter cover and frame. Left framing up over cockpit.
Washed and waxed topsides. Waxed with fleet wax.
Inspected rudder bushing and epoxy repair job. The epoxy surface is holding up well. The epoxy seems to have adhered well to the aluminum rudder shaft.
Greased upper and lower bushings and re-installed rudder.

Applied 1st coat of West system epoxy to tiller. Also coated engine wiring block with epoxy.
Cut exit slots in mast for internal halyards. Test fit halyards and rinsed shavings from inside of mast.
Replaced steaming light bulb.

Sanded 1st epoxy coat on tiller with 240 then 400 grit. It sanded pretty well. Applied 2nd coat of epoxy. It took 1 pump stroke to cover entire tiller with a tiny bit to spare that I put on the engine wiring block.

Sanded 2nd coat of epoxy on tiller with 240 grit. Sanded well. Applied 3rd coat of epoxy. Covered easily with 1 pump stroke.

Removed rust from bottom edge of keel with very coarse (50) sanding disk and wire brush on drill. Primed with zinc-chromate primer and sealed with west system with 422 barrier coat additive.

Started cutting out bad core in cockpit sole. Removed about 2 sq. ft and still need to remove more.

Cut out more bad core from cockpit sole.

Cut out more bad core from cockpit sole and got to dry core about 2.5' from aft end.
Mounted port side stanchions and life lines and put new 10-28 screws in port lifeline stanchion bases.

Cut out more bad core from cockpit sole.

Filled mounting holes on tiller with epoxy.
Sanded epoxy on keel bottom and applied 2nd coat.

Sanded epoxy on keel bottom and re-primed bare metal with zinc-chromate primer.
Wet sanded entire bottom with 400 grit.
Sanded thin topside stripe with 150 grit and painted with Interlux Topside Enamel (dark green) and touched up the top stripe (wide one) and the boot stripe.

Sanded 3rd coat of epoxy on tiller with 150 then 400 grit and applied 1 coat of varnish(Captain's Varnish).

Touched up bottom paint on hull. Just covered spots that were worn through and the parts of the keel that I had epoxied.
2nd coat of varnish on tiller after 24 hours. No sanding between coats.

Painted 2nd coat of VC Offshore on touch-up spots on bottom and painted entire stbd side of keel with foam brush. This will provide a comparison between fresh paint and last years and a test of the finish from a foam brush.
3rd coat of varnish on tiller.

Sanded touch up bottom paint. Painted 2nd coat of green Interlux Topside Enamel on stripes.
Cleaned transom with Meguiars #44 heavy duty color restorer and waxed with Fleet wax.
Mounted engine power terminal block on bottom of plywood winch backing plate under stbd coaming. Mounted engine and connected power.

Launched boat and moved to dock (D18). Taped paper to topsides to protect from travel lift straps.
Installed stbd stanchions and life lines.

Mounted additional cleat on port side of mast about 8" from the bottom.
Checked wiring for wind instrument. All wires were good. Cleaned pins in connector. There was corrosion on some of them.

Made anti-chafe tubes for wiring at steaming and foredeck lights to protect them from the internal halyards. I made them from brake/fuel line tubing.
Pulled mast wiring harness to inspect and replace slides.
Started prepping knotmeter to fit it in case from old knotmeter.

Soldered on new sections of wire for the steaming light and foredeck light (16ga yellow. Re-installed wiring harness in mast with new slides made from Plastruct PLS90029 1/2x1/4 I-Beam bought at a hobby shop. This is the same material I used before but one size larger. It fits the track much better then the 7/16x7/32 I used before. The slides are attached with 2 zip ties each about every 2 feet along the harness. The harness is in the port track. It had been in the stbd track but I switched it to help keep it clear of the internal running rigging. Installed anti-chafe tubes for wiring at steaming and foredeck lights that I made on 5/2. Put strips of 2" wide SOLAS reflector tape at top of mast. One horizontal strip all the way around and a 5" vertical strip on each side.

Installed stbd halyards and upper shrouds on mast. Drilled and tapped new 10-24 holes for mast top piece to replace OEM sheet metal screws which might have chaffed the new internal halyards. Prepped mast for transport back to marina. Shortened mounting screws for large padeyes on both sides of mast so they don't extend so far into the mast.
Connected steaming and foredeck lights. Soldered wires directly to bulb on steaming light because the bulb socket was damaged. I'll need to get a new steaming light, the lens is also in poor shape.

Replaced pin-type shackle on stbd jib halyard with snap shackle. Assembled and stepped mast. Left a messenger for the primary jib halyard and didn't install the spinn halyard. I'll do that when I go up to install the masthead instruments and windex. It was moderatly windy (10-20 kts, 15-25 at lighthouse) but the mast was managable on the crane.

Installed port jib halyard - Sampson XLS 900spectra core, 3/8 that I got at regatta auction. Did rough tuning of rig. Lubed turnbuckles with LPS spray lubricant.
Put Nicro press with thimble on end of wire from OEM halyard to use as topping lift. The OEM swage fits perfectly on the clevis pin at the masthead.

Mounted charging base for handheld VHF on forward end of main feed panel.
Cut away fiberglass build-up from top of rudder tube to glass it to bottom of upper skin of cockpit floor. Applied 2-3 layers of fiberglass cloth with West suystem epoxy to top of rudder tube under cockpit floor.

Applied more fiberglass tape to top of rudder post. About 2-3 more layers.

Applied 2-4 more layers of fiberglass tape to the top of the rudder tube. I used the 206 hardener (slow) and it was easier to wet-out the glass.
Installed new display chip in knotmeter that I recieved from LXD Corperation. It fixed the display problem with the unit.
Installed new display in knotmeter.

Sanded glass work on rudder tube and sanded underside of upper skin of cockpit floor. Added 2-3 more layers of fiberglass tape to top of rudder tube.

Started building repair panel for cockpit floor. I made a flat mold from plexi-glass and covered it with wax. I cut two pieces of woven roving to the size of the pannel. I placed one in the mold and wet it out with West System with the 206 slow hardener. Temperature in the garage was about 73 deg. After the first sheet of woven roving was wet out I put down the second sheet and wet it out. I used about 18 pumps total for both sheets. The 2nd took less then the first. I Let that set up for about 10 hours then added 2 sheets of mat using 205 hardener (temp about 70 deg). 2nd sheet wet out better then first, it wicked epoxy out of the first. It took about 20 pumps worth of epoxy to wet out both sheets of mat. I then wetted the back of the baltek balsa core and set it on the wet mat. This took about 5 pumps of epoxy. I put an OSB panel on top and put on about 150 lbs of weight. I put a bit of bend into the wntire layup to more closely match the curve of the cockpit floor. It's curved less then the floor so when I press the panel up in the middle the preasure will be distributed across the entire panel.
Finished cutting out old floor giving a straight edge for the new pane to meet. The new panel is about 22"x30". Also trimmed up the edges.
Cut oak wedges to more properly align tiller when rudder is on centerline. The tiller was off to port about 3 inches at the tip because the rudder stock is twisted. Applied 1 coat of epoxy to wedges and new mounting holes in tiller.

Mounted tiller to rudder stock with new wedges.
Pulled plexi-glass off back of repair panel. The surface is very smooth. The panel is moderatly flexible and has a slight bow to it - about 3/16" higher at center. The cockpit floor bow is about 1/2" at the center. It seems flexible enough to be fit in place. Cut out section to go around rudder tube. Did a bit of destructive testing to the scraps. The balsa seems very well bonded to the glass. The glass is about 4mm thick (2 layers of woven roving + 2 layers of mat. Ther original panel varied in thickness from 2-5mm and was made entirly from mat. There were large areas that were not wet out completley in the original panel.

Mounted boom, genoa/jib cars and mainsheet.
Went to top of mast and installed windex, wind transducer, topping lift, aimed flood lights and re-taped spreader boots.
I took the new repair panel to the boat and trimmed it to fit. This process took a while. I test fit the trimmed over and over until I had a good fit. I cut of just a little at a time. I used a saber saw to cut. The fiberglass is brutal on the blades. I went through about 4 blades (wood cutting type) for maybe 20 feet worth of cutting. I also made a stand for a scissor jack and a curved board to give better contact with the repair panel. Once I had the panel fit I cut a piece of fiberglass mat to fit the top side between the balsa and the underside of the upper skin on the boat. The mat provided a way to get a lot of epoxy on the mating surface and fill in the variations of the surface. The glass/resin ratio was probably not ideal but I think the contact was better and I figured poor ratio with good contact is better then good ratio with poor contact. I wet out the mat while a helper wet out the underside of the mating surface on the boat. It took about 20 pumps of epoxy to wet out the mat and 5 to wet out the mating surface on the boat. It was important to have a helper here. I used the slow harder (206) which gives 20-25 minutes of working time. I used 20 wetting out the mat. I needed the rest of the time to place the panel on the boat. It worked out very well. I had the jack all set up and slid the panel right in. I cranked the jack up and checked the fit one last time. Every thing looked good and some epoxy was oozing out the edges. I jacked it up so the deck was pressed up about 3/8" from normal. I left the jack in place overnight.

Removed jacks supporting cockpit floor repair panel. The new section is very stiff despite not having been tabbed in at the edges yet.
Re-assembled knotmeter. I switched the average and trip reset controls to the back of the casing and used the housing from the old analog knotmeter.

Re-mounted knotmeter sealing it with boatlife sealer caulk. Connected wires to all instruments temporarilly to test. Knotmeter worked fine, the display was good. The apparant wind direction worked but not wind speed just like last year.

Filled gap between top of rudder post and cockpit floor (upper skin) with West System with a 404 addative. Also filled part of the at the edge of the repair panel with a thickened mixture of West System and 404 addative, about penut butter consistancy.

Tuned rig. Looked just right under sail (5-10 knots w/130). Pinned and taped headstay.
Installed backstay adjuster line.
Installed Tiller and extension.
Pulled shroud covers off. There was a lot of build up on the shrouds under them. Maybe they should be pulled of regularly for cleaning.

Pinned shrouds.
Installed #1 battery.
Made lanyards for jib halyard snap shackles.

Made tiller cover.
Cleaned parts of shrouds that were under the vinyl covers.
Charged #1 battery.

Taped small windex to backstay turnbuckle.
Cleaned gelcoat areas of deck with Soft Scrub w/bleach. Worked very well. Then I used MaGuires #44 Heavy Duty Color Restorer on part and followed with Fleet wax. Surface looks very good.

Cleaned more of cabin sides and cockpit with Soft Scrub w/bleach on a scotch brite pad for the very dirty/stained areas. Soft Scrub is quite aggressive. followed with MaGuires #44 or #49 Heavy Duty Color Restorer and finally Fleet wax. Surface looks very good. Also cleaned life lines with Soft Scrub.
Measured for shelves in hanging locker.
Charged #1 battery for about 2.5 hours.

Made cardboard template for hanging locker shelf.

Cut panel for shelf in hanging locker. Cut from 1/2" birch faced plywood "Handi-Panel".

Cleaned bottom at dock with floating scrubber on pole. Also went out and cleaned from the water. There was a lot of algae and brown slime on the bottom especially on the port side. Also inspected the bottom of the keel to see what the grounding in the Mentor Harbor channel did (5/25/98). There was some paint missing on the bottom of the keel and some scratches.

Cleaned socket and bulb base in stbd bow light.

Installed new shroud covers. Used 1/4 size instead of 3/16 so the fit a little looser and water can run out. Hopefully this will keep them from accumulating so much crud on the wires under them. They also spin a bit which might help the sail go by in tacks.
Cleaned bottom at dock with floaty wonder scrubber. Seemed to be just slime on the bottom, not too bad.

Swapped port and starboard jib halyards. The port (internal) is the spectra line. I cut a length of cord to run the two internal halyards up to the masthead and coil up the rest under the sail cover. This way they will be out of the sun while we are not at the boat.

Fixed traveller. It had run off the end of the track in a jib and gotten stuck with 2 of the 4 wheels jammed on the wrong side of the track.

Replaced shock cord on genoa cars with larger 1/4" size. Doubled it so there are 2 lengths to each car. Cars return very well.

Loosened headsatay about 3/4".

Routed out bottom of new hanging locker shelf to make it lighter. Also put on 2 coats of epoxy with white pigmet to bottom of shelf.

2nd coat of epoxy (w/ white pigment) on hanging locker shelf bottom and 1st & second on top.

Made fiddle for hanging locker shelf and coated with white epoxy.

Started working on galley locker expansion into outboard dead space. I removed the galley cabinet and cut A 14"X9" opening in the cabin liner. The dead space behind the liner is about 25"x8"x12" (about 1.3 cuft). The opening to the space will be inside the gally locker (see drawing GAL-MOD.DW2).

Sanded inside of new galley locker space and painted with Enterprise High Gloss Enamel white 1400 100% Acrylic (same as locker paint on 1/14/95).

Made front panel for new galley locker space and cut out bottom. Both are from 1/2" birch faced plywood. Routed out sections on bottom of bottom piece to make it a bit lighter (probably 2/5 or so). Went to boat and test fit pieces and marked for triming. Trimmed on jointer/plainer. Coated with West system epoxy with white pigmet.
Applied 2nd coat of paint (Enterprise High Gloss Enamel white) inside new locker space.

Applied 2nd coat of epoxy with white pigment to galley locker bottom and forward end piece. Washed port cabin lockers, main cabin floor and bilge and flushed all with water Also got to try out the electric bilge pump. It took water out a bit faster then the hose put it in.

Sanded galley locker bottom and hanging locker shelf to 400. Made mounting strips and blocks for both and coated with epoxy with white pigment.

Mounted bottom of new galley locker space. Final coat of epoxy on blocks that hold up hanging locker shelf.

Added additional screw fasteners to back of galley locker cabinet.

Re-installed galley cabinet. Installed hanging lockeshelf.

Cleaned bottom at dock with floating scrubber brush. I got a lot off but it had a lot of slime on it and needs more work.

Replaced 2 blocks on backstay adjuster. Replaced the rigged double block with a Lemar Ocean Racing 1402 and the control end with a Winchard 33108 single with cam and becket. Swapped out the 1.25" harken block on the starboard coaming with one of the Lewmar 1401 blocks that does not swivel.

Replaced 3:1 downhaul blocks with 6:1 made with Harken 087 tripple and 095 tripple w/cam & beckett. I mounted the 095 at the bottom to a schaefer badeye that fits inside the sail track on the mast.
Swapped twist shackle on backstay adjuster block with smaller one.

Detached mainsail, boom and mainsheet in preperation of unstepping the rig for haulout.

Unstepped mast and stripped most of the parts off for winter storage. Hauled the boat and set on cradle for winter storage. I set three blocks under the keel so I could get at the bottom of it. The keel has lots of pock marks on it, more on the port side. Looks like bad adhesion of the barrier coat to the cast iron.

Started winterizing boat. Washed hull, cleaned waterline stains with FSR, unloaded gear.

Continued winterizing boat. Waxed topsides with Fleet Wax, removed tiller, unloaded more gear.

Covered boat and removed motor to bring it home. It took about 2-1/2 hours to put up the frame and get the cover on. The motor lock was hard to get off because someone tried to cut it off with bolt cutters. They were unsuccessful because the lock sits half in a channel making it impossible to get the bolt cutters over the entire shank. But the shank was bent and that made it difficult to remove. I think the attempt to steal the motor was made after haulout. I did not notice any dammage to the lock before that and I think it would have been obvious. And there was fresh light brown rust in the cut on the shank.

Removed batteries and brought them home. Charged #1. Added 1 qt of antifreeze to head.


Made measurements of keel in two places to evaluate foil shape. Doesn't look too good.

Made measurements of keel at the top of the V on the bottom (about 4" from the bottom edge. Foil shape is very close to a NACA 0009 foil.
Made cardboard mockup of nav/stove table locker to evaluate the fit. Seems pretty good.

Measured holding tank, water tank and space under v-berth. Removed v-berth sliding doors.

Removed water tank.

Removed holding tank and hoses and vent loop. Also removed knotmeter impeller thru-hull. Cleaned holding tank with bleach solution.

Started work on fan blower motor to fit in forepeak. Made cover for fan box unit. Charged #1 battery.

Removed winter cover. Four of the track fittings had popped off. I had tied line from each bow to the next and I think that helped keep more track fittings from coming off and it helped contain the ones that did. It also keeps the track fittings from sliding for/aft. The wood clamps on the rubrail held up OK. Several dropped in the last week as the cover had worked loose. I will have to make a few new ones I think for next winter.
Applied a rust treatment to the spots on the keep in preparation for painting. It was a Rustolium Rust Treatment made to give rusty metal a paintable surface.

Cut out framing for water tank and holding tank. It came out pretty easy. I discovered a thick section of fiberglass tube glassed into the bottom of the hull under the water tank. Looks like a lifting ring for moving the unfinished hull in the factory.
Removed galley locker and brought it home to fit faucets for foot pump and pressure water system.

Replaced motor spark plugs. Used Chapion Split Fire. They were only $2 more then the regular plugs ($4).

Test fit new water tank in aft dinette locker. The tank JUST fits through the locker opening.

Cut out lift ring tube under v-berth. Measured for shelf in aft end of cockpit locker. Drilled pilot hole for new speedo impeller location.

Temperature about 50 deg. Filled in old speedo impeller hole. First I sanded the surface with 60 grit to rough it up, then I sanded off the paint on the inside then I set up a block on the outside with a wax paper face. I put a rag under the wax paper to make it mold to the hull better. The block was pressed against the hull with a spring loaded curtain rod. I started with a 1 pump batch of epoxy with barrier coat additive. I added it to the hole from the inside covering thoroughly. Then I put in a round cut piece of mat and wet it out with the epoxy/barrier coat. I added more round pieces of mat and wet them out with straight epoxy. I filled the hole and covered it with 1 square piece of mat.
Made fiberglass backing for new speedo impeller location. I sanded the surface on the inside of the hull with 60 grit and laid down 6 layers of mat wetting each out as I applied it.
Got all of the rig components together to get the mast ready for stepping.
Tested annemometer wiring. Opened the mast head unit and all wires were good to molex connector that plugs into mast wiring. The annemometer has two terminals on it that are connected to the blue and brown (orange) wires in the cable (molex pins 2 and 6, amp connector at mast base C and H). The resistance across the annemometer was 660 ohms. It did not seem to generate any voltage when spun.

Temperature about 60.
Epoxy work from 4/24/99 set well. Outer surface of speedo hole patch looked good. It will need sanding and botom paint. Backing pad for new speedo location also looked good. Drilled hole for speedo and shaped bevel for flush mounting with dremel tool with a sanding drum attachment. Took about 45 minutes to drill and shape with lots of test fitting. Epoxied speedo thru-hull in place. Waxed threads so i may be able to unscrew the bronze fitting and apply sealer. OK if I can't.
Took mast off mast tree and started getting it ready. Replaced old steaming light with new one - Perko 1331-DP-CHR. Inspected main electric connector at mast base. About 1/2 of the pits are badly corroded. I will need to replace it.
Got 2nd key made for new engine lock.

Temperature about 55.
Filled lower unit of motor with gear oil. Test ran motor. Removed front half of PVC cover frame. Installed stanchions and lifelines. Sanded epoxy work on speedo thru-hull and old speedo patch. Filled low spots with epoxy/barrier coat. Put epoxy on lower rudder bushing to tack it in place.

Temperature about 60.
Sanded and painted epoxy work on old and new speedo locations. Sanded epoxy flush, there is still a low spot on the old speedo patch. Painted with VC-Offshore - the epoxy had barrier addative. Touched up bottom paint on keel, rudder and a few small spots on the keel. Touched up green boot stripe with Interlux Topside Enamel (dark green).

Waxed topsides with fleet wax. Compounded a few spots before waxing to take off water streaks. Took about 1 hr.

Rigged mast for stepping. Took about 1:15. That included mounting masthead unit, running halyards, mounting shrouds stays and topping lift.
Built plug end for new mast base power connector with Molex 1360 PRT 12 pin connector (about 1 hr). I soldered 1' wires to the male plugs and heat shrinked over the whole thing. I ganged three 14ga wires for the negative and added 2 extra wires in the extra terminals. I will splice this onto the mast wiring harness and spice the female receptical to the wires comming from the mast step.

Started splicing the new mast wiring harness molex plug on.

Launch day 1999
Prepped boat for launch. Installed speedo impeller with a dab of grease on the rubber seal. Greased rudder bushings and installed tiller. Installed engine and connected it to the electrical system and mounted lock bar. Installed #1 battery. Before the boat was in the slings I covered the topsided with paper where the slings would be. This kept the slings from leaving marks. The yard launched the boat at 1230. Finished installation of new molex power connector in mast base and installed small 9 pin connector for data cable. Installed female molex connectors at mast step. Installed new windex light shade made from gray film can.
Stepped mast with 1 helper. Took about 35 minutes thanks to all the prep work like having the clevis pins ready in the turnbuckles. Lifted the mast from the back, the front of the house was about even with the ladder.

Tested mast lighting. Steaming light blinked when the rig was shaken. I think (hope) the bulb is just loose in the mount. The steaming and foredeck lights were reversed in the harness. I'll correct that in the hanging locker junction. I couldn't tell if the windex light was working.

Removed rest of winter cover. Tuned rig. Mounted genoa cars, boom, main sail, downhaul, and backstay adjuster. Washed deck.

Removed galley cabinet to take home to finish mounting new fauct and spiggot for foot pump.

Fabricated insert panel to fit aft of sink to mount pressure water system faucet and foot pump spiggot. Made the inset from 1/2 plywood with oak corner braces to connect it to galley cabinet. Cut holes for fixture mounting and cut slots in galley cabinet back to make room for hose attachments. Applied first coat of West System with white pigment to insert panel and edges of newly cut areas.

Applied 2nd coat of West System with white pigment to insert panel.

Mounted fabricated inset panel to galley locker.

Re-installed galley locker with new faucet and spigot.

Fabricated bracket to hold water filters out of sheet aluminum.

Test fit microwave oven on top of galley locker. It fits with about 1" above, 3" in front and 3" on the inboard side.It will need to be blocked up about 1/4" so the door will clear above the front edge of the galley locker door. Microwave dimensions are 17" x 9-5/8" x 12", weight is 27lbs. There is a knob that extends another 1/2" off the back to keep the unit away from the wall.

Sewed in new stainless steel D-rings to replace plastic ones on lower lifeling webbing sections. Re-whipped the 1/4 line to the new d-rings.

Re-installed lower lifelines. Moved main cabin fire extinguisher mount to aft bulkhead between instrument access panel and cabin light.

Mounted fire extiguisher in head compartment. Mounted the bracket on the forward side of the main bulkhead at the top right next to the compression post.

Made new feet for microwave so I can fasten it down to the counter top. Made wood panel that will be glassed to the inside of the hull to mount the water filter bracket.

Mounted clock on starboard main bulkhead. Mounted windex and wind instrument unit at mast head. Fixed intermittent steaming light. The tubular bulb was loose in the metal tangs. I bent the tangs inward to better hold the bulb. Seems to work fine now. The wind instrument works as before, apparant direction but no speed. I'll have to have a look inside the display unit.

Mounted microwave to galley locker counter top. I ran screws up through holes in the counter top into the wooden feet I made on 7/6. I put rubber pads on the bottom of the feet. The screws tighten against the rubber feet.

Cleaned the bottom with my floating bottom brush for the first time this season. It was pretty messy and probably needs a more thorough cleaning from the water.

Fabricated new self steering rig with knob adjuster.

Made shock cord sections for self steering rig. They attach to clevis pins on the bar and have snap clips that attach to the stanchion base. Replaced plastic cover on headstay below the tuff luff. I put on a peice of 1/4" cover and a piece of 3/8" cover over that. Mounted red night lights in main cabin. One is on the bulkhead right above the switch panel, the other is on the edge of the moldeing around the companionway over the sink. I wired the light above the switch panel.

Wired cabin night light on edge of companioneay molding. I connected it to the main junction box using the orange wire in the cable running up to the instruments. Cleaned corrosion off the negative connector on the #2 battery. Voltage was 11.3 before and 12.15 after. Charged #2 for 2 hours. Made 1/4" aluminum backing plates for padeyes to be mounted aft in the cockpit for tether attachment.

Mounted Winchard snap hook to end of mainsheet so it can be used to hoist an MOB or heavy object from the water. Works pretty well. Reinstalled traveller car. I took it off and squeezed it a bit in the vice so it would fit more snuggly. It seems pretty good. I also greased the wheels on the car. The car was damaged on 5/23/99. I had the mainsheet tied off to the padeye on the front bulkhead of the engine well.

Mounted two padeyes with backing plates at back of cockpit on bulkhead facing forward. They are for connecting a harness tether.

Replaced forward mounting screw for outboard shelf fiddle in mail cabin with larger screw. I had to drill out the fiddle to fit the larger screw. Mounted small hook on bulkhead over GPS to hang locker key and engine key.

Test fit Igloo 120 quart cooler under cockpit. Without the lid if has 2" to spare in the opening and there seems to be plenty of room behind it for a fuel tank, even with the extra insulation for the cooler box.
Removed mainsail and boom from mast. Rolled the main up and lashed it to the boom.

Removed running rigging, genoa cars, backstay adjuster and unstepped mast. Dissassembled mast and placed it on mast tree. Unstepping went very smoothly with help from a guy named Lee. I positioned the boat so the hoist derrik was about 1 foot aft of the mast so the hoist line was clear of the windex. As I released the shrouds the mast tilted toward the lift but it was very easy to handle and the lift line was well clear of the windex which is what I had in mind. I had set a for and aft halyard and that made control easier. I stedied the base, disconnected the electrical and released the halyards. A very smooth job overall. Took about 30 minutes at the hoist.

Repaired broken jack stand pad. Wire brushed jack screws and sprayed with paint. Next spring I will sandblast them and put a proper coat of paint on them. Serviced PVC cover frame. Had to make replacement for bow #3 which was lost overboard in the spring. Also made two new t-track connectors.

Installed PVC cover frame. I tied a line connecting each latteral with a clove hitch to keep them from moving.

Removed batteries. Lifted boat on travel lift and set on cradle. Washed and waxed hull with Fleet Wax.

Removed some cusions, clothing and safety gear to dtor in basement. Removed stbd jib halyard and topping lift from mast and replaced them with messenger line.

Removed motor andbrought it home for winter storage. Put on cover with strap under rub rail and clamps. Cover is a bit baggy.


Cover was coming off so I removed it. That really cheap blue poly tarp was not very good.

Removed door to head compartment. It is badly warped. The middle is about 2 inches out from the ends. I may hang a curtain in it's place. Made measurements in the v-berth locker for the new locker floor.

Leveled boat by changing the blocks under the cradle. I used a 4ton hydraulic jack to lift the cradle. I leveled it with a bubble level on the main cabin floor so all level references are from there. It's not perfect but pretty good. Cut v-berth locker floor template from scrap piece of paneling. Fit's well, I'll use it to transfer the dimensions to a piece of plywood. The floor will sit about 5 inches above the lowest part of the hull in the locker. Used a laser level to mark the points on the hull. Set it up on a level board at the right height and spun it around marking the hull as I went.

Cut out v-berth locker floor from 1/2" birch faced plywood. I traced the outline from the template I made on 3/26. Beveled the cut on the sides to better fit the slant of the hull. Will trim to fit. I need to cut out an access panel and install the deckplate for the speedo access.

Marked v-berth bulkhead for locker access cutout. Trimmed locker floor to fit.

Cut locker opening in v-berth bulkhead. Opening is 18" wide by 14 " high. The corners were cut with a 1" radius fillet. I cut the panel with a jig saw using Craftsman carbon steel blades. I wore out 4 blades for about 6 total feet of cutting. The blades went further if I cut at a slower speed.

Trimmed v-berth locker floor to fit. I cut a bevel in the edge with a belt sander to match the slope of the hull. Also cut template for forward locker bulkhead from scrappy paneling as on 3/26.

Removed cover frame and installed lifelines. Prepped rust spots on keel with Rustolium Rust treatment. Sanded areas of green stripe for touch up.

Touched up bottom paint and green stripes.

Washed topsides and deck (except cockpit). Cleaned stains on topsides with FSR and applied Meguiars #44 color restorer to part of starboard topsides. Worked well. Waxed over that area with Fleet Wax.

Treated topsides p/s with Meguiars #44 color restorer and waxed all with fleet Wax.

Launch day 2000
Treated transom with Meguiars 49 heavy duty Oxidation Remover and waxed with Fleet Wax. Mounted motor. Splashed boat and moved to d-dock.

Installed tiller and battery #1. Replaced 1/4-20 nuts on stanchion base bolts in v-berth with acorn nuts.

Installed genoa cars on t-track. Test fit toaster oven on top of microwave. Fits OK, have to check proximity to bulkheads for heat.

Installed used depthsounder head that I got at BAM for $2. Seems to work. Shows 3 feet in slip, probably actually 5 feet but the offset for the transducer is about 18" so maybe 3 feet is a good reading.

Tested Stowe Navsounder that I got at BAM for $10. I connected it to the Rayjeff transducer that's siliconed to the hull. It seemed to work fine at the dock showing 4 feet. That's about right considering the transducer depth below the waterline. This unit has a larger display then the $2 Rayjeff and it has more features. See photo DEPTH.JPG.
Re mounted starboard shelf fiddle in v-berth. It has 3 rounded edges and one square. The square is supposed to be on the bottom of the shelf side. It was at the top of the berth side. Seems like it was originally installed that way from the washer marks.
Fabricated extension for the spinnaker bail from 1/4" aluminum. I moved it about 2" forward so the aft mounting holes of the original bail are where the front had been. It has 3 different fastener heads (all 1/4-20 threads). The front are flat slot type for a big screw driver, the middle are 3/8 and the aft are 7/16.
Replaced memory battery in VHF. New battery is a 1/3N lithium with solder taps on the case. It mounts directly to the circuit board. Soldered and heat-shrinked new windex light bulb on masthead.

Took mast of mast tree and set it up on saw horses.

Cut slots in mast for spinnaker halyard, still need to smooth and polish edges. Flushed chips and metal dust from mast with hose. Started rigging mast. Installed top, ran starboard jib halyard and topping lift, attached stays and shrouds, and installed spreaders.
Mounted VHF and powered up. Seems to work but no antenna yet. The memory seemed to work.

Polished spinnaker halyard exit slots in mast. Finished rigging and stepped mast. Took about 15-20 minutes at the mast crane. I ran the new spin halyard out it's exit slot and to the block. The lead is much better if the halyard block is not able to slide to the port side of the bail so I tied it to the starboard side with seizing wire. I will have to re-configure the bail to keep the block to starboard without the wire.
Cut carpet for cabin floor. It doesn't quite fit right and I may have miss measured while cutting, but it's just a scrap.

Installed boom and main sail. I replaced the bolt that connected the boom fitting to the gooseneck pivot with a clevis pin. Tuned rig and pinned with split rings.
Installed knotmeter transducer. This was the first time I did it in the water. I piled up a bunch of towels to soak up the water that came in as I pulled the cap off the thru-hull and put in the transducer. It was quite intimidating to see how much water came in in the few split seconds between removing the cap and putting in the transducer.
Tested Stow depth sounder out in turning basin. It seemed reasonable but was reading 17 where the Rayjeff was reading 14. I'll need to take a lead line to verify which is closest to correct. The Stowe seemed right on in the slip.

Removed cheek blocks from starboard side of boom and mounted them to port side for single line reefing.
Connected knotmeter power.
Did some depth soundings with lead line to check the Navsounder. It seemed to be right on when you count the depth of the transducer.

Removed seizing from main sheet and put in stopper knot so it can be pulled up and tied to cleat on boom to make purchase 5:1 for using the MOB lift sling. To use the sling the boom needs to be raised about 2 feet higher then the topping lift takes it for the sling to clear the coaming. I raised it with the main halyard. The port jib halyard could also be used.

Mounted two Ronstan 5010 carbon fiber cam cleats to hold the headsail sheets as an alternative to the regular cleats. They are mounted forward of the winches about 4" ahead of the stanchion brace. These Ronstan cleats are rated at 400 lbs so they should be fine with the sheet loading coming off the winch.
Click here for photo
Mounted rope loops in the cabin for attaching the tether bungies for the bottom of Alex's swing when it hangs in the companionway. I drilled two 1/4" holes, faired the edges with a file, and put a loop of line through with knots on the back side. There is one on each side and one under the companionway step on centerline.

Cut mounting plate for depth sounder to mount it in place of the wind instrument. Cut it from 1/4" plywood and put on one coat of varnish.

Fabricated backing plate from 1/4" aluminum to mount Schaefer padeye under companionway. The plate is 1-1/2 x 4" with threaded holes. The padeye is mounted with two 3/4" 1/4-20 hex head SS bolts. I had to reach up between the interior liner and cockpit bulkhead to position the backing plate. I sealed the mounting with BoatLife caulk.
Sealed cam cleats mounts on coamings (see 6/18/00) with BoatLife caulk.
Put a small screw in each side of the teak companionway trim to secure the sun shade for the companionway.

Removed old reefing cleats from boom. Re-mounted one of the cleats on the mast for the single line reefing. Moved the forward single line reefing block as far forward on the boom as it would go. I experimented with the block on the mast but there was too much tension change as the boom moved form one side to the other. I put an eye strap midway on the boom to contain the reefing line. Re-mounted the Lewmar Ocean Racing 60mm blocks on the OEM life line padeyes at the stern for the spinnaker sheets. Need to add shock cord.

Started mounting new double bow cleats. The new (used) Merriman cleats have the same fore/aft bolt pattern so I only drilled 4 holes for the outboard pairs of bolts. There is a 3/4" plywood cored strip that's about 4" wide and runs the length of the foredeck. The inboard pair is through this, the outboard are through 1/2" thick balsa core. The outer skin is about 1/4", the inner about 1/8". I only drilled through the outer skin and then removed about a 3/4" radius of balsa and filled with epoxy with a high density filler. I made the epoxy a bit too thick and it was difficult to fill the holes without a bubble in them. I stirred the epoxy in the holes to clear the bubble.

Finished mounting of bow cleats. Drilled 5/16" holes in epoxy done on 7/1. I backed all 8 5/16-18 bolts with 1-1/2" fender washers. I sealed all with Boat Life Caulk.
Started mounting Lewmar #8 winch on cabin top. I decided on a position towards the forward end of the space behind the coaming. I drilled 5 3/8" holes through the outer skin only and removed the balsa core around the holes. I used a series of Allen keys chucked in the drill. I cut the ends short and angled like a chisel so they could spin and chew away just a but of balsa for each one. I used three. The first was 1/4", second 1/2" and the last was 3/4". I think closer spacing with one more would be better. It was hard to get the 2nd one started spinning with out binding. I cut away more of the holes with the dremmel making them about 1/2". This let me cut out more balsa. I cut a radius of about 1-1/4" and the holes were joined to form one large cavity with a balsa spot in the middle. I sucked the balsa chips out with the shop vac. Once the balsa was out I filled the cavity with West epoxy with a high density additive. I poured the epoxy into the inboard holes (they were higher) and it flowed into the entire cavity. It took 5 pumps worth to fill the cavity. Then I took the winch base and set the 1/4-20 bolts on it with washer and nuts so it stood on them like legs. I waxed the bolts and placed it on the deck with the bolts in the holes so the epoxy would set around them. I ran the spin halyard to the dock and pulled the boat over to a 5 degree heel to level the mounting spot and let the epoxy set. After it set I unscrewed the bolts. They all came right out with no trouble. If I think this is strong enough (West System thinks it is) I will simply mount the winch to the cabin top this way. If I decide it's needs backing I'll drill through and make a backing plate.

Sanded cabin top winch mount with 60 grit to grind down excess and prep surface for riser pad. Made riser pad for cabin top winch mount out of epoxy with 404 high density filler and white pigment. I mixed the epoxy to a thick peanut butter consistency and spread a 3/8" thick patch on the winch mounting spot. I waxed the winch bottom and mounting bolts and bolted it down with 3/4" bolts. I tied a halyard to a winch handle to pull the winch up a bit so it didn't squeeze out all the epoxy. I backed the screws a bit so they were not bottomed out in the holes. I cleaned up the edges as best I could and let it set. I had taped down masking around the winch. I also attached a Ronstan 5010 cam cleat at the aft edge of the cabin top to take the line coming off the winch. I drilled oversized holes, removed balsa with the allan key in the drill and filled with epoxy/404 filler. I made a canted pad from the same thickened epoxy that I used on the winch pad. I set the cam cleat down with waxed screws in the epoxy.
Mounted 4x7" wood paned in port cockpit locker for water filter mount. I glued it to the forward bulkhead in the locker with West/403 adhesive filler in a thick peanut butter consistency.
Removed galley locker to bring home for fitting of faucet hoses.

Got new drain fitting for galley sink. It's actually a tub drain with a stopper built in. It feeds to a PVC elbow that runs out about 3" higher then the OEM setup. I cut a new hole in the back of the galley cabinet for the drain hose. Fitted waster supply hoses to faucet. I'll route them through the old sink drain hole in the bulkhead to the cutoff valves in the cockpit locker. Layer out configuration for the pressure water valve parts.
Removed cabintop winch base from epoxy pad to cut a water drain in the pad. I just cut a small groove from the center to the side with the dremel and a rotary bit. There was a void in the winch base that I'll have to fill before mounting the winch.

Filled void in winch mounting pad with epoxy/404 mix. Assembled winch with rebuild parts and mounted. Installed galley cabinet and connected sink drain. Mounted filters for pressure water system. Mounted hose fittings on valves and filters and connected hoses with temp set up. Both the filtered and un-filtered taps work but the inlet hose is not run forward yet. And I need to install a regulator. Replaced #12 self tapping screws that hold galley cabinet to side of aft settee seat locker with 1/4-20 machine screws backed with nuts and large fender washers. These bolts carry the load from the port side of the companionway step support.

Made a mounting panel for the 3 water system valves form a piece of 1/2" plywood. Its about 4"x10". I coated it with epoxy with white pigment.

Removed traveler jam cleats, drilled out holes, drilled 3/8 holes for new cam cleat mountings and removed balsa core. Port side was dry, but starboard was wet. Filled voids with epoxy with 404 high density filler.

Drilled holes and tapped for #8-24 screws in epoxy plugs for traveler cam cleat mounts. The starboard side is a bit loose and should be re-set with epoxy.
Mounted valves for water system on forward bulkhead in port cockpit locker. I mounted it with 2 1/4-20 screws that come through from the cabin. I tapped the holes in the bulkhead so the screws act as studs for the mounting. They are backed on both sides with fender washers. Hooked up all the plumbing except the line for the engine well faucet. I need a few more clamps before I can pressurize it.

Put clamps on all water system plumbing and hooked up to the marina water. After I got all the clamps tight everything worked fine. I didn't have the clamp to the valve that will feed the water tank fill tight enough and it blew of sparing water all over. Not too bad and was easily fixed.

Mounted end caps for t-track with 1/4-20 screws tapped into toerail top and sealed with BoatLife caulk. Re-bedded hinges for forward hatch. Over-drilled, removed balsa core and filled with epoxy/404 high density filler. I also routed out the spider cracks around the holes and filled them with epoxy. The epoxy/404 is almost a perfect color match for the tan non-skid. The gel coat was really thick, probably about 2mm. The hinges were a bit bent so I straightened them with some hammer tapping and re-seated one of the hinge pins. I set waxed 10-24 screws in the epoxy with the hatch and hinges in place to get proper alignment. I also waxed the bottom of the hinges to keep them from sticking.

Ground off excess epoxy from repair on forward hatch hinge mounts. I had to grind down the ends of the screws a bit to fit the slightly more shallow holes. Hatch mount is now very solid, but the hinges would be better with 2 more screws halfway forward from the aft edge. The way it is now the screws are more easily stressed because of the lever action of the hinge as the hatch is opened all the way. Mounted a padeye on the bulkhead inside the companionway on the port side almost at the top. I tapped the holes and used 10-24 screws. I put the padeye there to hang the rigging knife for easy access. Scrubbed the bottom with the floaty scrub bush. It was pretty slimy on the port quarter where the afternoon sun hits it.

Washed deck and cabin sides with Boat/US non-skid cleaner and Scrubbing Bubbles. The Scrubbing bubbles was very effective and took off a lot of dirt and stains.

Did 3 step treatment on cabin face at front of cockpit and cabin top on both sides of companionway. First I applied Meguiars #49 heavy duty color restorer, then Meguiars #45 polish treatment, then fleet wax. It's sort of shiny now but not like I wish it was.

Did same 3 step treatment to cabin sides and front as on 8/3. Looks a lot better.

Installed water system inlet/regulator (Shurflo 183-029) in engine well. I removed the light I added to fill the hole from the old fuel line tube and enlarged the hole to fit the regulator (3.5" diameter). I tapped holes in the fiberglass for the four 10-24 fasteners and sealed everything with BoatLife caulk. I cut the hose to length to fit from the inlet to the valve assembly and connected it.

Built small wiring harness for depth sounder with 6 pin Molex connector. Wiring is:
  1. 12V
  2. Light 12V
  3. Ground
  4. White
  5. Blue data
The blue and white wires may be for data. I also mounted an in-line female RCA connector fro the transducer hookup. All connectors are soldered and all wire ends are tinned for connection to the sounder's screw terminals. I also attached the sounder to the wood mounting plate I made on 6/3/00 with Boatlife caulk.

Mounted depth sounder in hole on bulkhead that used to have apparant wind unit. I temporarily connected it using the blue wire from the main junction box that had been for the wind instrument. I moved it in the main junction to the depth sounder switch. I also re-connected the compass light and the instrument lights.

Started cutting larger hole for new compass mount in bulkhead at front of cockpit. The mounting holes for the new C. Plath compass match the old but it needs a larger hole. I didn't finosh because the new compass has a leak. I'll have to service it before mounting.

Unstepped mast for winter storage. I slacked only the starboard srouds to pull the pins. I released the backstay adjuster all the way and was able to pull the pins without loosening any turnbuckles. I stripped all the rigging off the mast, removed the mast head piece, ran messengers for the internal halyards and covered the ends with plastic bags. I brought all the rigging home and rolled the headstay/tuff luff into two loops so it wasn't too tight. I rolled the main onto the boom and storred it in the boat.

Hauled boat at 1030. Winterized water system by draining filters and hoses. Removed cars from jib track. Removed the tiller and storred it in the v-berth.


Made bulkhead for forward end of new locker and aft end of holding tank mount under v-berth. Made it from 1/2 birch faced plywood. Beveled edge to better fit contour of hull.

Cut platform for holding tank to sit on. Cut forward bulkhead for holding tank mount. Fitted it and the bulkhead made on 4/14 with oak 1x1's for the tank platform to sit on. Made side (latteral) bulkheads too but I may leave them out since the seem unnesesary considering the size of the tank and stiffness of the platform.

Installed motor and changed lube in lower unit.

Launch day 2001
Splashed at 0830. Prepped mast for stepping. Took about 2 hours with a little help. Stepped mast, took about 20 minutes. Installed backstay adjuster and genoa cars.

Tuned rig. Installed boom and mainsail. Mounted spinnaker blocks. Connected hose in locker for pressure water system.

Started installing new bulkheads in v-berth locker. Stripped paint off inside of hull where bulkhead will mount and sanded with 60 grit. Layed down 3 layers of mat as backing for bulkhead tabbing. This will help keep it from showing a hard spot on the outside.

Trimed bulkhead for v-berth locker to make room for mat added to inside of hull. Glassed in new bulkheads that form mount for holding tank. I made a fillet at the corner of the bulkhead and hull with West System thickened with silica, then layed two layers of cloth on both sides.

Cut hoses to fit for head plumbing. I will need a heat gun to get them on I think. And it's very tough to manipulate the hoses and pass them through the holes. The runs to and frm the tank look good and slope down to the tank.

Re-tuned rig and pinned turnbuckles. Covered with white tape.

Replaced engine spark plugs.

Unstepped rig. Stored headstay with tuff luff foil in basement, the rest of the rigging is on the boat.

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